A most fortuitous discovery

We had a late start… just as we were about to leave, the guy arrived to repair the solar panels. Big deal, as the hot water is tied to them! We obviously waited for him to finish his work. Victor pitched in to help him clean up and he asked Victor if he wanted to work with him!

So finally, off we went, although a bit delayed. A couple of things to return at the Brico were the driving force for today’s outing, which we managed, but… because of our late start, we weren’t able to make it to the Euronics store in time before they closed for lunch. We decided to spend our own lunch hour enjoying the local cuisine, while waiting for the stores to reopen. When in Rome, right?

So, as Victor took off on the route, I searched for places for lunch to pass the time. But the drive was too fast, so suddenly the area was upon us. I picked the place closest to the Euronics store that wasn’t a sushi restaurant, not even having time to read about the restaurant, just trusting. I quickly updated the GPS, which took us the wrong way. We came to a point where we could see a sign for the Il Ristoro del Vinturo, straight ahead of us, but Waze told us to turn right. We put our faith in the GPS, and it failed us horribly this time. We found ourselves on a long, bumpy gravel driveway.

We navigated back to the sign for Il Ristoro del Vinturo, and found ourselves driving down yet another path / driveway towards a horse stable. Hmmm, still no sign for il ristorante. We parked and strolled across the property, following our noses (the smell of yumminess was in the air!) to a place whose sign declared “Benvenuti!” So we took the chance and walked in. It certainly looks like a restaurant! A table of guys, in varying ages, stopped mid-conversation as we entered. Uh, maybe this is a private place? Nope, there are other tables to the right, sparsely populated by other characters. A lovely gentleman rose from the table of ragazzi, and greeted us, quizzically… I said haltingly, trying to make sure I got the name right, Il… Ristoro del Venturo? He pointed to the floor: é qua! he grinned. Ah, arriviamo! I exclaimed. Still seemingly surprised, he gestured to a table, and asked white or red (we said bianco) before disappearing into the kitchen. Our host promptly brought back a carafe of white wine, along with a bottle each of sparkling and flat water, which he set on the table with a wordless flourish.

When he returned again, it was with an adorable dark-skinned gentleman who our host presumed we’d need for translation. No, proceed in Italian first, we’ll see if we need it! He began to recite today’s offerings, but we stopped him as we heard the meat dishes. I shook my head and waggled my finger (like a good italian): siamo vegetariani! So he ticked off the vegetarian choices, which were plentiful. With his advice, we settled on a zuppa di farro and the ravioli with sage butter sauce as our primi. Then a gorgonzola walnut risotto and a risotto di funghi for secondi. We thanked our would-be translator, and off they went to prepare our food.

But first, first… out came these little heavenly delights they called pasta fritta. We asked, so we could be on the lookout for them elsewhere: it’s pasta dough (or did he say pizza dough?) dropped into hot oil. They looked like little blonde hush puppies but were super flavorful. Dio mio, they were delicious! The wine, however, was most definitely NOT. In some places, it’s rather rude and pretentious to order a bottle, especially if you already have a carafe of the house stuff. But I noticed one of the guys at the big table had a bottle. I’ll brave it, as not only was the wine rather harsh, there were… things… floating in it as well. I’m sure they didn’t drink much of it, but still. I asked Victor if he’d be too embarrassed if we asked for a bottle, and he shrugged, which means no, not too much. I asked for the carta dei vini which I was surprised to see was quite extensive. One whole page said vini da Pierluigi. We’d have to ask about that winery, if they have a whole page dedicated to them. When our host came back, I was pointing to a vermentino, hesitating. Ah! I’ll bring you a very good vermentino; he was back with it in a flash. And it was. Very good indeed!

Everything else was incredible, too. They put the zuppa di farro in from of Victor and the ravioli on my side: three beautiful, bountifully stuffed little packages. When he next walked by, and raised his eyebrows to inquire, it’s okay? I rolled my eyes and said, squisito (just like it sounds, exquisite)!!!! The ravioli dough wasn’t as super light as some we’ve had, but I rather liked how substantial it was, and how properly al dente. Then Victor proffered a spoon of the soup to me across the table, his eyes glazing over. It was a hot day so we were a bit skeptical about having soup… but wow. It was divine. Thick and creamy, and the farro was just enough, and just perfectly cooked. Next time our host came by, after we had the risotto, we again indicated how much we were enjoying everything, and he stopped and cocked his head, like he’d just thought of something else… funghi fritti? Si, I nodded. He held up 2 fingers: 2 portions? No, we said, one is fine, so much food! The risottos were both amazing, creamy and very distinct. The funghi was earthy but not heavy, and the gorgonzola was impossibly creamy. We couldn’t finish either of them.

At one point, the room fell silent, the previously boisterous conversations at the big table of guys came to an abrupt halt. Ah, their food had arrived and with it, the sounds of silence and enjoyment.

We finally talked a bit with our waitress, after our mouths were empty and our bellies were full! We told her we had the rental in Poggio, and she said, oh I have a friend there at Namaste! We gasped, really? Everyone seems to know Namaste. It turns out she’s Lithuanian, too, from the same town as one of the owners, Zivile. Even before we’ve met them, the Namaste people have been a presence in our lives. We told her of the friends we’d met two days prior, also Lithuanian, also from the same town as Zivile.

Oh, yes, then the funghi fritti arrived. We can’t possibly eat another bite, we think. And then, we do. And the fried porcini are somehow light as air, even on such full stomachs. Then a coffee and an amaro to help digest all that yumminess. The amaro, which I’m certain is made locally, maybe on the premises?, was so good I asked to buy a bottle.

And the capper, the best part was that as we were leaving, our waitress, Ruta, mentioned to our host where we were staying. He asked if we were British (thank you!), and we said no, American. Ah, he said, my friend who was here last night has an American friend. We somehow discovered that he was talking of our new friend, GB (Giovanni Battista), who was there just last night, and apparently had mentioned americani nuovo in the area! Such a small world. We introduced ourselves, as did he: Pierluigi. Ah, the light dawned. The wine list was made of his personal selections. He promised that we could buy some of the amaro. Next time…

In Italy… Alla casa, finalmente!

We’re driven to the Zagreb airport and treated to a Croatian tour / history lesson by our shuttle driver who seems to be the unofficial Croatian ambassador. He’s adorable and charming, with smiling, animated eyes that peer at me from the rear-view mirror as he regales us with tales of his country.

The Zagreb airport is so deserted, we honestly wonder if it’s been closed. Not a single car at the front drive. NOT. ONE! Not much better inside. The good news is, NO lines for check-in or security. We grab a quick sandwich, washed down with a (surprisingly good) Croatian red wine for me and a Heineken for V. The flight is sparsely populated as well, and before we know it, we arrive in Munich.

In the Munich airport, we encounter only the most minor of obstacles when the very German customs officer inquires as to our reason for continuing to Italy. We were prepared! Domicile, I repeat; Carlotta has advised that this is on the list of approved reasons for entry. Do we have an email, or a receipt, or an agreement of some kind? Why yes, in fact, we do! I produce not one but two copies of our (unexecuted!) lease, procured thanks to the combined efforts of our little multinational village: Sally, who threw together a basic lease before heading to the hospital (in Scotland!), Carlotta, who found us a simple one-page version in Italian, and Derek, who printed them both out for us in Croatia, before we left. English is better for me, he smiled. Great, a connection (in hindsight, I wondered if it was my “In love we connect” mask?); he peruses it, hands it back with a friendlier nod than his original greeting, and off we go into another deserted airport, before boarding yet another deserted (aka socially-distanced!) flight.

Finally, we survive a bumpy landing in Florence, and are greeted at the ariport and then driven to our little mountain paradise of Vico Pancellorum, by our dear friends Sam & Carlotta. They brought a stunning little wine — a Moscone Nocciolino, which we share with new neighbor Grahame, a toast to our successful arrival, before turning in for a much-needed good night’s sleep. Finally at home. Good night, Vico!

Day 2: Cacciatore e Nuovi Amici

I awake with a start. img_9284

The air is punctuated by the sounds of insistent dogs, trying desperately to alert someone… anyone, I think. But no one is listening. Suddenly, a single chime from the bell tower, and they are silenced.

Then the bells begin their lovely little tune, albeit slightly off key. They could stand a calibration. This sets the dogs off again. And just after, a shot rings out. And I realize that it’s le cacciatore, hard at work on a Sunday morning. Illusions – shattered.

Well, at least the view is fabulous!

As it’s domenica (Sunday) and almost everything is chiusa, we wander down to the little tiny alimentari in the little tiny borgo, where Roselle is the game proprietress, welcoming all of us stranieri to her little haven. She charms us with her warm smile, her slow Italian that we can pretty much understand, and of course, il cibo – the oasis in the food desert on this bleak Sunday. We choose the produce that looks the freshest among the lot: zucchine and the usual suspects in Italian cooking – onions, garlic, capers, and her locally produced olive oil, which she proudly presents to us in an emptied plastic soda bottle.

We also meet a couple of the other longer-term temporary residents – one from Sweden, the other an American who’s been living in Paris. The latter is Teresa, who promptly invites us to her place for a drink, but we have already made plans with a couple of the permanent resident locals to come to us for a quick visit, so it’s decided that Teresa will just join us.

Then back to the casa for a quick nap before Teresa comes for a drink, and we hear from the other friends that they cannot make it. So we extend drinks into dinner, which we make up on the spot: Tagliatelle con pomodori, cipolle e aglio di olio. And a side of zucchine with more garlic. Teresa contributes her amazing and very addictive salad to the dinner – the freshest cicoria, with her candied fennel and a light, tasty dressing. And more wine ensues.

We find that we have much in common, not the least of which is that she also is a vegetarian, and also wants to move to Italy and teach veggie / vegan cooking lessons! We decide it’s Il Destino that we’ve met and we decide we must make plans  to support each other’s visions!

Day 1: Italian welcome… (or, How to Gain 10 lbs in 1 Day)

Troppo cibo!!! In one day, I undid all the good I had done prior to leaving…

Just an hour or so after touching down, it was lunch at an agriturismo our friends Leonardo e Elena chose for us. Course after course after course of divine food: simple, well-prepared and so fresh I think they picked it as the plates were being placed in front of us!

Then we checked in at our little Lovely Loft with Bianca and got settled in, and made a beeline for “the Vincanta” to procure wine to fortify us! A couple of roses, one bianco and 2 rossos, and we were off to cena at Al Palazzaccio:

  • Truffle bruschetta
  • Ravioli Letizia
  • Strongozzi con pomodoro e pepperoncini
  • Cicoria

I had an aha moment — realized I was shy suddenly, when it was just the two of us in this quiet little neighborhood restaurant, with no local connections to ease our way. But during dinner, I made a pact with Vittorio – Se e quando capiamo come si dice in Italiana, saremo! (If and when we know how to say it in Italian, we will, instead of constantly falling back on English, even with each other!)

Then back to the villa and falling into bed, despite my desire to post day one of our adventure here, fully not only satiated but stuffed!

PS – Forgot to take photos, I was being such a glutton! 

Pizza! The Trial Run…

I learned something new tonight. Did you know a pizza can catch fire? 😮

The curing process for the new wood-fired oven was pretty tedious. Especially for someone like Victor who’s ready to jump in and play with his new toy. Keeping the temperature low is no fun. Lots of monitoring the temp, adjusting to make sure it doesn’t get too hot too fast. Luckily, he had company with the pups. And several neighbors stopped by to check on the progress and keep him company as well.

FINALLY! Tonight he got to take it for a test spin, cranking it up to 900 or so degrees.

Tomorrow night, to celebrate our upcoming trip to Italy and break in the wood-fired oven, we’re planning to fire it up for our weekly potluck. With tonight’s test run, we learned a few things we’ll do differently next time around. But we suspect that it will take a few attempts to get it right. The pizza was half and half: pesto and a homemade red sauce, with caramelized onions, mushrooms, and mozzarella on all. It got a little toasty and even caught fire for a second! Exciting! But was pretty tasty nonetheless.

However, the pizza dough from Toscano & Sons was fabulous! Puffed up and was tender, crunchy and chewy as it should be. Let’s see if we can improve upon it for tomorrow night!

Cena Al Di Fuori: Ricordi d’Italia!!!

Cena da casa Preston!

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Per celebrare la prima di primavera, abbiamo cena con gli nostri amici Anne e Clay. Clay cucina il cibo favuloso:

  • Tortellini in brodo (fate in casa!!!)
    • Con un po d’olio tartufo bianco, e pecorino romano!
  • Zucchine con aglio e olio
  • Chard in olio

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E vino italiano, certamente!

Molta buona! Che una meraviglioso strada comincia la primavera!