Day 2: Cacciatore e Nuovi Amici

I awake with a start. img_9284

The air is punctuated by the sounds of insistent dogs, trying desperately to alert someone… anyone, I think. But no one is listening. Suddenly, a single chime from the bell tower, and they are silenced.

Then the bells begin their lovely little tune, albeit slightly off key. They could stand a calibration. This sets the dogs off again. And just after, a shot rings out. And I realize that it’s le cacciatore, hard at work on a Sunday morning. Illusions – shattered.

Well, at least the view is fabulous!

As it’s domenica (Sunday) and almost everything is chiusa, we wander down to the little tiny alimentari in the little tiny borgo, where Roselle is the game proprietress, welcoming all of us stranieri to her little haven. She charms us with her warm smile, her slow Italian that we can pretty much understand, and of course, il cibo – the oasis in the food desert on this bleak Sunday. We choose the produce that looks the freshest among the lot: zucchine and the usual suspects in Italian cooking – onions, garlic, capers, and her locally produced olive oil, which she proudly presents to us in an emptied plastic soda bottle.

We also meet a couple of the other longer-term temporary residents – one from Sweden, the other an American who’s been living in Paris. The latter is Teresa, who promptly invites us to her place for a drink, but we have already made plans with a couple of the permanent resident locals to come to us for a quick visit, so it’s decided that Teresa will just join us.

Then back to the casa for a quick nap before Teresa comes for a drink, and we hear from the other friends that they cannot make it. So we extend drinks into dinner, which we make up on the spot: Tagliatelle con pomodori, cipolle e aglio di olio. And a side of zucchine with more garlic. Teresa contributes her amazing and very addictive salad to the dinner – the freshest cicoria, with her candied fennel and a light, tasty dressing. And more wine ensues.

We find that we have much in common, not the least of which is that she also is a vegetarian, and also wants to move to Italy and teach veggie / vegan cooking lessons! We decide it’s Il Destino that we’ve met and we decide we must make plans  to support each other’s visions!

Next… !?!

Grant Achatz’s Next Restaurant, Chicago, and Aviary

The pictures are worth a thousand dollars… I mean, words! The experience: Priceless!

Sailors in the Great Midwest

So, Victor has been jonesing for a sailing trip. Who’d have guessed he’d get it in Chicago?

Captain Victor at the helm

Captain Victor at the helm

Our friends Cornelia and Sam coerced us (took a lot of arm-twisting…) to go with them to the Next restaurant adventure: this season’s theme being Vegan (that deserves its own post entirely)! When we contacted our set designer friend Collette to let her know we’d be in the area, her reply was something to the effect “we’ll be leaving town the day you arrive… but, if you want to come a couple of days earlier, we have a sailboat reserved.” Just the impetus it took to get Victor to commit to a couple of extra days in the Windy City. And oh, yeah, she and obliging hubby Mark offered their amazing home for us to stay in, both while they were there and after they left us.

Between the ritzy accommodations (a stunning remodel in the hip and convenient Lincoln Square) and the scenic sailboat tour, the trip was a triumph. On arrival, Collette took us on a stroll down to Julius Meinl, where we munched on yummy spaetzle (putting on temporary hiatus my moratorium on wheat!) and Victor’s omniscient grilled cheese. Then it was off to an architectural emporium, where many items were added to the wish lists. Then back to the casa for Aperol Spritzes, who emitted their siren song to call Mark to join us. And then to the Lake, but not before a stop (well, detour really) by Mana for take-away nosh for onboard dining later.

The calm before the storm

The calm before the storm

The view of the city from the lake morphed as we floated, breaking open first the wine (even though the boat was missing a corkscrew, and we had to improvise to get into the bottles!), then the food, and enjoying a lovely repast – totally worth the extra time we took for the detour to pick it up. Luckily, after we were all stuffed, we put away the remaining food, what little there was, and broke open another bottle of vino. On one side of the lake was the remnants of a beautiful sunset, on the other, a few angry looking storm clouds. To Collette’s query, Mark thought we would be able to stay south of them. With apologies to Mark… this was a little optimistic. Suddenly, the clouds must have changed direction, as the skies opened up right over our heads, and with no warning… buckets!

Collette and I did the only sensible thing: grabbed the wine and made for cover. We managed to save all but one glass, which Mark told us to leave (presumably so he’d have some to swill as he fought the rising waves). We tossed rain gear out to the guys and sat below deck, as women should, sipping our wine and chatting amiably as the boat rocked and the guys fought our way back to shore. It was nice to be able to deny the tempest that was happening above us, save for the glimpses of the dark horizon and the crashing waves through the portholes behind Collette’s head… which I tried to ignore. It was actually a little scary at times, had we not had the illusion created by being in the dry cabin.

The calm after the storm

The calm after the storm

Finally, the storm subsided and the guys glided the boat into the dock, where we sat for a few glorious moments, Mark gamely downing the rain-drenched glass of wine that had been left on board in the storm, despite our protests that we would pour him a fresh, undiluted glass. I imagined it was rather like consuming the beast that he had conquered!

The next day’s sail was longer, but much less eventful. The weather? PERFECT! Warm and mostly sunny, but with some cloud cover and a cool breeze, almost dangerously so for someone like me: a fair flower unaccustomed to the sun’s rays! The wind? Not strong enough to make it exciting, but only just enough to keep us moving and make for a very peaceful day. The rocking of the waves, the warmth of the sun, the gently energetic music coming through the speakers courtesy of Collette and Pandora, comfortable conversation. All in all, a perfect 24-hours on the water.

Our sincere thanks to our gracious hosts, Mark & Collette!

Still in Italy (nel cuore e nella mente): Post-Trip #2

We loved our trip so much, we’re still on the high. We may be physically back in the ATL, but that’s about it. The heart and mind take a little longer, thankfully!

Tartufi bianchi!!!The picture here is of the local tartufi bianchi from the Piemonte (Piedmont) region we visited this year. They’re so amazing, but not more so than the local chicken of the woods mushroom our friends Sam & Cornelia shared with the Mushroom Club of Georgia attendees, but we were having too much fun on Monday night to snap a photo of those (yes, again). So…

What you missed on Monday night:

  • Sage battered Chicken of the Woods with Cheddar Fonduta (by Victor, inspired by Sam, courtesy of the recipe in Kevin Gillespie’s new cookbook “Fire in My Belly” and requested by me!)
  • Cornmeal battered Chicken of the Woods mushrooms with Lime-Horseradish Aioli (made by Sam!)
  • Yummy Cheese and Crudité (provided by Hank)
  • Sweet Potato Home Fries (made by Tana)
  • Curried Eggplant with Mustard Greens (made by me, with sous chef Victor; again inspired by, and with apologies to!, Kevin Gillespie’s chef demo at the Morningside Farmer’s Market on Saturday)
  • Chocolate torte (from Hank’s birthday party)
  • Vanilla ice cream with AMAZING assortment of balsamic drizzles: chocolate, cherry, blueberry and fig (generously shared by Sam & Cornelia)

Oh, yeah, and a few bottles of delicious vino… certo!